“Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos (San Roman) is one of the leading lights of Toro. Founded in 1997 by former Vega Sicilia winemaker Mariano Garcia Fernandez, they own 60 hectares of vineyard in San Roman de Villaester and Hornija, mainly planted with Tinta de Toro and Garnacha, the average age of vines around 35 years interpolated with vines on un-grafted rootstock. The oak aging here is very prudent, with around 20% renewed each year, both French and American. The present winemaker is Mariano’s son Eduardo Garcia Montana, who trained in Bordeaux and Burgundy among other regions. These exceptional wines were suffused with personality, purity, a life-affirming sense of ‘controlled opulence’ that, to be frank, put many a more expensive Toro wine in its shade.”
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, April 2013
The growing season in Toro is short and intense. Days of 35 to 40ºC are followed by nights 20 to 25º cooler. Diurnal heat and light drive phenolic and tannin development in the Tempranillo (here called Tinta de Toro), while acidity climbs in the nocturnal chill. The resulting fruit is well-balanced and intense. This wine is a gift from a very good vintage in Toro, when a mild winter and frost-free spring fueled rapid budding and flowering. Stable temperatures drove steady ripening through the September harvest, which occurred over four weeks of beautiful weather and studded by intermittent rainfall. The winery reported excellent fruit quality.
Thoughtful winemaking and a light hand in the cellar mean limited intervention and minimal stabilization, while two years in French and American oak (new and used) make for a modern expression of Spain’s most famous grape. San Roman combines power and elegance, civilized tannins and a dense mouthfeel of vibrant dark fruit. It is an intriguing wine with a pronounced mineral character and very expressive nose, including notes of black fruit, cocoa, licorice, and aromatic herbs. Broad and rich and bright with well-defined tannin structure, it shows both freshness and persistence on the palate.
The 2014 is a new release that has yet to be reviewed. The 2013 vintage received the following:
“(Aged for two years in 75 percent French and 25 percent American oak barrels, half of them new) Inky purple. Heady cherry, dark berry, vanilla and violet pastille qualities on the oak-accented nose. At once rich and energetic; a firm spine of acidity provides lift to sweet cassis, blueberry and vanilla flavours. Closes with youthful tannic grip and impressive persistence, leaving dark berry and licorice candy notes behind. 2021 – 2028”
93 points, Josh Reynolds, vinous.com, Jan 2017
“The 2013 San Román was produced with fruit from older vineyards in Toro. In 2012 they started reducing the amount of the new oak in this wine and the change is quite noticeable. There is something leafy and floral showing elegance within the power that the place provides naturally. 2013 was quite different in Toro from Ribera del Duero, here the cooler years are a plus, as they balance the extra ripeness the place provides. In 2013 there was no rain during the harvest and the grapes were very healthy. There are some fine tannins and the profile of a more austere and transparent vintage, a mineral year. But it does have the smokey and slightly wild character of Toro.”
93 points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, Feb 2017
“Very pretty aromas reminiscent of graphite, crushed blackberries and cappuccino undertones that turn floral. Concentrated and fine-grained Toro with berry flavours. Plenty of wood, yet this is silky and attractive. Better to drink in 2018 but delicious now.”
93 points, JamesSuckling.com, Dec 2016