Weingut Hirsch Grüner Veltliner “Hirschvergnügen” 2014

hirsch hirschvergnugen
Austria
Grüner Veltliner
Type: White Table Wine
Vintage: 2014

If you’d like to get to know the Hirsch style (and you should), consider this the perfect entry: a vibrant, inviting wine made from the indigenous Austrian Grüner Veltliner. Sourced from mineral-rich loess soils, it is light-bodied with depth, charming fruit, and the variety’s characteristic earthy spiciness. It is a Grüner Veltliner that combines pure Hirsch pleasure (“Hirschvergnügen“) with pure class.

 

Typical, beautiful Grüner spice; citrus zest; and green apple are threaded through with woodsy mushroom and white pepper in the bouquet. This is a crisp and nervy wine with with the easy appeal of juicy fruit. A good bite, direct, and exhilarating.

 

“Citrus oil richness; exotic inner-mouth perfume of bittersweet flowers and resinous green herbs; and tropical lushness of papaya and pink grapefruit aren’t what I would have expected from an entry-level and alcoholically light Grüner Veltliner. But I’m not complaining! Buried in there somewhere are more Veltliner-typical hints of lentil and white pepper. This finishes with a rush of refreshing juiciness supporting a welter of flavour. (Although the labelling has changed, this basic Hirsch bottling, formerly designated with a nickname and number, retains the same cellar approach and sources: almost entirely from the estate, plus bio-dynamically farmed fruit from one northerly neighbour.) 2015-2018”
90 points, David Schildknecht, vinous.com, Nov 2015

 

“The new label will be the ongoing label, as I seem to have been in a minority-of-one who liked the label changing each year. Ya happy now? The wine will make you happy if not; ripe, tobacco-y and smoky, deep and earthy and almost tannic in the finish. Really huge for 11.5% alc, it tastes like a mushroom stock you threw a few drops of Sauv-Blanc into.”
Terry Thiese, Skurnik Wines, 2014