Weingut Hirsch Grüner Veltliner “Hirschvergnügen” 2014

hirsch hirschvergnugen
Austria
Grüner Veltliner
Type: White Table Wine
Vintage: 2014

If you’d like to get to know the Hirsch style (and you should), consider this the perfect entry: a vibrant, inviting wine made from the indigenous Austrian Grüner Veltliner. Sourced from mineral-rich loess soils, it is light-bodied with depth, charming fruit, and the variety’s characteristic earthy spiciness. It is a Grüner Veltliner that combines pure Hirsch pleasure (“Hirschvergnügen“) with pure class.

 

Typical beautiful Grüner spice, citrus zest, and green apple are threaded through with woodsy mushroom and white pepper on the nose. This is a crisp and nervy wine with the easy appeal of juicy fruit and good bite on the palate. Direct, and exhilarating.

 

“Citrus oil richness; exotic inner-mouth perfume of bittersweet flowers and resinous green herbs; and tropical lushness of papaya and pink grapefruit aren’t what I would have expected from an entry-level and alcoholically light Grüner Veltliner. But I’m not complaining! Buried in there somewhere are more Veltliner-typical hints of lentil and white pepper. This finishes with a rush of refreshing juiciness supporting a welter of flavour. (Although the labelling has changed, this basic Hirsch bottling, formerly designated with a nickname and number, retains the same cellar approach and sources: almost entirely from the estate, plus bio-dynamically farmed fruit from one northerly neighbour.) 2015-2018”
90 points, David Schildknecht, vinous.com, Nov 2015

 

“The new label will be the ongoing label, as I seem to have been in a minority-of-one who liked the label changing each year. Ya happy now? The wine will make you happy if not; ripe, tobacco-y and smoky, deep and earthy and almost tannic in the finish. Really huge for 11.5% alc, it tastes like a mushroom stock you threw a few drops of Sauv-Blanc into.”
Terry Thiese, Skurnik Wines, 2014