LCBO Vintages Release
“Hirsch, one of the biodynamic pioneers of modern Austria, has again bottled one of the finest collections of grands crus you can find along the Danube river. His wines are moderate in alcohol, lovely, pure and tension-filled, and show a stimulating finesse and salinity.”
Stephan Reinhardt on 2014 at Weingut Hirsch, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, April 2016
Johannes Hirsch is a (self-admittedly) headstrong winemaker with a deep attachment to his region and its soils. The combined traits play out in thoughtful ways: immense pride in working some of the Kamptal region’s best vineyard sites, and a willingness to take educated risks. This is a family estate that, for instance, made a notable departure ten years ago to work only with Grüner Veltliner and Riesling based on initimate familiarity with the land. A similar sense of conviction prompted the decision to bottle the entire portfolio under screwcap – a decision lauded today.
If you’d like to get to know the Hirsch style (and you should), consider this a first step: a vibrant, racy wine made from biodynamic Grüner Veltliner grown in mineral-rich loess soils. It is driven and fresh, with stone fruit and white pepper. There’s a luxurious texture and length that you may not expect from Grüner, with the food-friendly ease you do.
“Flinty overtones signal the freshness of the wine which has yet to show its true colors. But the tight, taught, focused and zesty palate promises lots of refreshment. There is a generosity here between zest and pepper, with concentrated pear and citrus. Superclean finish.”
92 points, Anne Krebiehl, Wine Enthusiast, Sept 2015