Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 2012 [6/cs]

salon delamotte blanc de blancs
France Champagne
Chardonnay
Type: Sparkling Wine
Vintage: 2012

Delamotte is one of the oldest wineries in Champagne. Established in 1760 in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, it is the “little sister” property to the legendary Champagne Salon. They share viticultural, enological, and managerial teams as well as terroir. Vineyard location is the key that guides Delamotte’s house style: elegant, focused, expressive. All vineyards are sourced from Grand Cru sites.

 

“A worthy successor to the super 2008, Delamotte’s 2012 Blanc de Blancs is performing very well—despite the fact that it was disgorged as recently as June 2019. Opening in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, dried white flowers, smoke and wheat toast, it’s medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a bright girdle of acidity, well-integrated dosage and a fine mousse, the muscularity of the vintage rendered with uncommon finesse. While this is quite expressive for such a recently disgorged vintage Delamotte, the rewards of even only a few years’ patience will be considerable.

94+ points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, Aug 2019

 

Since its acquisition in 1988 by Laurent-Perrier, Delamotte has been twinned with Salon, one of Champagne’s most prestigious small houses. Delamotte has both gained and lost by the association: gained, in that some of Salon’s reputation has tended to rub off on Delamotte, and lost, because Delamotte is frequently portrayed—though not by the house’s team, of course—as something of a “second wine” to Salon. Though both are Chardonnay specialists emphasizing their home village Mesnil-sur-Oger, in reality, the styles are quite distinct. Delamotte’s wines undergo malolactic fermentation and, in profile, are creamier, more textural and giving, displaying an elegantly autolytic character while eschewing any extremes of Maillard-derived toastiness. Average production amounts to some 750,000 bottles per year, and the estate’s emblematic cuvées are its non-vintage and vintage Blanc de Blancs; the latter especially is a very serious wine, and recent renditions are especially good. In fact, the 2008 may be one of the more underrated wines from this superb vintage on the market, and it’s arguably this cuvée that suffers the most by Delamotte’s position in Salon’s shadow. These wines age well, and old non-vintage Delamotte can be a great bargain in the auction or brokerage market. I’m currently finishing up a case from the early 1980s from my cellar in Burgundy, and every bottle has been terrific.

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, Aug 2019