Peay grows seven clones of Chardonnay on seven of the chilliest acres in their hill-top Sonoma Coast vineyard. They farm an assortment of Old Wente and Dijon clones; regardless of clone, their Chardonnays are united by chalky, citrus, apple, and pear notes, with vibrant energy from brisk acidity. This is not rich, buttery, fat Chardonnay.
The youthful nose of the 2017 emphasizes attractive lemon curd, ripe apple, and green banana that will round out and diminish with time. The mouth has a silky, slightly oily texture that is round yet precise. The finish emphasizes the estate vineyard’s mineral profile with excellent acidity and a long finish.
“The 2017 Chardonnay Estate is quite deep and almost phenolic in its sense of structure. This a rare Chardonnay that absolutely demands cellaring. Sage, almond, dried pear, chalk, mint, lemon confit and crushed rocks develop with time in the glass, but the 2017 is a wine that will need at least a few years in bottle to start drinking well. Readers should be in no rush.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni vinous.com, May 2019