“Rioja is on a roll. […] Official efforts to add interest to Rioja include increased attention paid to white Rioja that has gone from representing five to eight per cent of total production in the last five years. I have fond memories of the deep golden, waxy, somehow molten white riojas that were available in the 1970s. Since then such wines have become difficult to find. […] Another of Rioja’s historic producers, Marqués de Murrieta, has been trying to recreate the white wine marvels it used to produce. Their Capellania is a lavishly oaked wine from seriously old vines that begins to prove itself only after several years in bottle.”
Jancis Robinson on Capellania, May 2018
Capellania is a single-vineyard wine of limited production. Planted in 1945, the low-yielding Capellania vineyard is perched at the Marqués de Murrieta Ygay Estate’s highest point, 485 metres above sea level. It is composed entirely of hand-harvested Viura that is gently crushed, briefly macerated, and pressed in a vertical press. This is a slow process that favours the extraction of aromatic compounds. The juice is settled and fermented in cool steel for 24 days prior to 15 months ageing in new French oak and one year maturation in bottle.
The result is a singular wine: a white with the soul of a red. Astonishingly elegant, complex, and impressively structured. The incredible bouquet will be enhanced by decanting an hour before serving. Pair with citrus-glazed duck or very rich, firm fish, like grilled sturgeon.
“A linear and tight white with superb lemon curd, apple, lemon and creme caramel. Full body, phenolic tension and density give this white form and beauty. Extremely long and flavourful. Drink or hold.”
96 points, JamesSuckling.com, July 2019
“One of two vintages I tasted of the single-vineyard white, the just-bottled 2015 Capellanía was cropped from a warm and healthy year, and the wine matured in new French oak barrels for 15 months. Like it happened with the rosé, the two vintages I tasted of this white—2015 and 2014—are also very different, with 2015 a more homogeneous year and the 2014 quite a bit more challenging. 2015 was a healthy and warm year, and the grapes were picked quickly (they harvest all of these grapes in one and a half days). All of the wines are kept some time in concrete before bottling. This is a powerful and round wine, with stuffing to develop nicely in bottle, a little in the style of the 2012. However, don’t think the wine is soft or flabby, as Viura keeps very good acidity and makes wines that are lively and with freshness in the finish. This is, of course, bone dry and nicely textured. These are generously oaked whites that should develop over the years. 54,495 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2019. This will be released in September 2019.”
93 points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, June 2019