Peay “Pomarium” Pinot Noir 2017 [6/cs]

peay pomarium sonoma coast pinot noir
California Sonoma County
Pinot Noir
Type: Red Table Wine
Vintage: 2017

The name Pomarium (po-mare-ee-um, Latin for “apple orchard”) harkens to the early 20th century when the hillside vineyard was planted to Bartlett pears and Gravenstein apples for dried fruit production to feed San Francisco.

 

The Pomarium blend is made from clones and blocks that capture dark fruit and earth flavours while also featuring high tone floral incense aromas. This offers a broad canvas and a balanced tension to the wine that makes it unique among wines from this area and from Pinot made, really, anywhere. In the last 3 vintages, the quality of Pomarium has improved dramatically and is more complex, nuanced and downright delicious than ever before and 2017 continues this upward trend.

 

The nose on the 2017 Pomarium is exotic with floral incense aromas enveloping a black tea and tobacco core. The floral quality counter balances the earthy notes and allows the fruit to emerge as a cohesive whole. The palate reveals the masculine side with dried leaf qualities, dark berry, blood/iron, and green peppercorn spice all held together by fine tannins less grippy than in 2016. Pomarium is the most masculine of our Estate Pinot Noirs and is yummy now but will also reward bottle aging.

 

The 2017 is not yet reviewed, but the 2016 received the following:

 

“I once read that the monks of Burgundy considered the texture of a great pinot noir a spiritual experience. The way it glided airily over the palate. Slippery silkiness, as if the wine were a dancing elixir. I was reminded of that idea as I drank the 2016 Pomarium from Peay (pronounced PAY). The wine is exquisitely precise (not a molecule out of place) and has ethereal cool pristine fruit (not fruit that’s heavy and overripe). I can imagine the monks being entranced by such a beautiful wine. I was.”

95 points, Karen MacNeil, June 2018

 

“The 2016 Pinot Noir Estate Pomarium is bright, focused and tightly wound, with a distinctly red-fruit and mineral-leaning set of aromas and flavours. The 2016 is endowed with striking translucence and nuance, but it also needs at least a few years in bottle to be at its very best. The focus, tension and energy here are remarkable.”

94+ points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, April 2018