“Rioja is on a roll. […] Official efforts to add interest to Rioja include increased attention paid to white Rioja that has gone from representing five to eight per cent of total production in the last five years. I have fond memories of the deep golden, waxy, somehow molten white riojas that were available in the 1970s. Since then such wines have become difficult to find. […] Another of Rioja’s historic producers, Marqués de Murrieta, has been trying to recreate the white wine marvels it used to produce. Their Capellania is a lavishly oaked wine from seriously old vines that begins to prove itself only after several years in bottle.”
Jancis Robinson on Capellania, May 2018
Capellania is a single-vineyard wine of limited production. Planted in 1945, the low-yielding Capellania vineyard is perched at the Marqués de Murrieta Ygay Estate’s highest point, 485 metres above sea level. It is composed entirely of hand-harvested Viura that is gently crushed, briefly macerated, and pressed in a vertical press. This is a slow process that favours the extraction of aromatic compounds. The juice is settled and fermented in cool steel for 24 days prior to 15 months ageing in new French oak and one year maturation in bottle.
The result is a singular wine: a white with the soul of a red. Astonishingly elegant, complex, and impressively structured. The incredible bouquet will be enhanced by decanting an hour before serving. Pair with citrus-glazed duck or very rich, firm fish, like grilled sturgeon.
“A linear and tight white with superb lemon curd, apple, lemon and creme caramel. Full body, phenolic tension and density give this white form and beauty. Extremely long and flavourful. Drink or hold.”
96 points, JamesSuckling.com, July 2019
“Fermented in stainless steel and aged in new French wood, Capellania hails from a parcel of 70-year-old Viura at 485 metres. This is an increasingly refined, nuanced, ageworthy white with salinity, minerality, precision and notes of citrus, white pepper and grapefruit. 2020-30.”
96 points, Tim Atkin MW, Rioja Report 2020
“The Viura plot covers 6 hectares, planted in 1945 on a plateau at an altitude of 485 metres. The wine has been aged for fifteen months in new French oak after fermentation in stainless steel. Green tinges and white gold, then a seductive nose which marries tropic fruit, beeswax, verbena and chamomile. The palate adds chalky, white pepper complexity and hints of pineapple and quince. The tropical and the citric dance an energetic pas de deux; fresh and composed, yet, for all that, one does not entirely lose the distinctive waxy personality of its previous incarnation, when American oak held court. Drinking Window 2019 – 2025”
93 points, Decanter magazine, Nov 2019