LCBO Vintages Classics Collection
“A great family estate in Gigondas, Domaine Brusset was created by Andre Brusset in 1947. Today, it covers over 70 hectares (in Gigondas, Cairanne, Rasteau and Côtes du Rhône) and is run by Daniel Brusset, with help from his grandson, Laurent. This estate uses a relatively high percentage of new oak, and they definitely show modern characters in their youth, yet they age beautifully and in this reviewer’s opinion, never lose their Southern Rhône charm or soul.”
Jeb Dunnuck on Domaine Brusset, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, Dec 2016
Brusset’s Gigondas is a testament to the low-yielding old vines that grow on small, steep terraced plots located below the great Jurassic calcareous ridge of the Dentelles de Montmirail. The terroir here is heavily influenced by the terrain, and by the soil, too, a combination of clay and rock. Owing to the steep aspect of the vineyard, the grapes are all hand-picked. The resulting wine, comprised of 70% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, and 15% Syrah, is characterized by immense depth and concentration.
“Les Hauts de Montmirail” is Brusset’s top cuvée. The winery itself is a large and important domaine with vineyards spread through the southern Rhône, primarily in Gigondas and its neighbouring villages. It was among the first estates to introduce small barrels (barriques) for aging. After an extravagant use of wood in the early days, they have brought the marriage between wood and fruit to a nearly ideal point. Hand-sorted, crushed, de-stemmed, and cold-soaked, this wine fermented in large vats and matured in French oak barriques, half of which are new. (Those with a phobia of oak should consider seeking out the winery’s Tradition “Le Grand Montmirail”.) This wine will benefit from eight or more years cellaring to reach its peak.
“One of the top wines at this address, the 2016 Gigondas les Hauts de Montmirail shows incredible perfumed freshness, red raspberry fruit and a full-bodied, richly creamy texture. On top of all that, this blend of 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 25% Mourvèdre shows absolutely no sign of excessive weight or heat despite its enormous ripeness. It should be appealing on release yet capable of aging a decade or more.The energetic Laurent Brusset seems to always have new wines to show. His domaine now consists of 70 hectares, based in the village of Cairanne but reaching out as far as Ventoux and up into the Dentelles above Gigondas. At this address, like so many others I visited, the 2016s stood out above the 2015s for having an extra level of generosity.”
93-95 points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, Oct 2017
“The 2016 Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail (50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 20% Mourvedre) offers attractive seawood, black fruits, pepper, and leafy herbs, with a terrific liquid mineral character showing with time in the glass. With building richness, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and notable structure, this is going to be great.”
92-95 points, Jeb Dunnuck, Oct 2017
“Very solid, with a focused beam of dark plum, blackberry and boysenberry pâte de fruit flavours supported by grippy bramble and tar notes and backed by a lingering mineral edge. A roasted apple wood accent frames all the elements. Best from 2020 through 2035.”
95 points, Wine Spectator, Sept 2018
“Complex aromas with notes of black olive tapenade,mix of mint, liquorice and dark plums. On the palate the oak is well integrated bringing lovely structure for later pleasure.”
92 points, Decanter World Wine Awards 2018