In 1947, with his reputation firmly established in Cairanne, Daniel Brusset’s father followed his vision to develop vineyards on Les-Hauts-de-Montmirail. By 1971, when Gigondas was elevated from Côtes du Rhône Villages-Gigondas to its own AOC, Brusset was already one of the region’s best producers. The family had taken a risk and invested heavily in what they perceived as excellent rugged mountain land, ignored by neighbours who preferred easier, flatter terrain.
Today, Brusset is the owner of some of the most spectacular terraced vineyards in Gigondas, all on the formidable Dentelles, the sharp fingers of rock behind the village of Gigondas. The family is committed to preserving this biosphere, having recently obtained the Level 3 High Value Environmental Certification from the French Ministry of Agriculture. For over 15 years, the vineyards have been seeded with organic cover crops. The wines receive no inputs whatsoever during vinification, with the exception of a minuscule dose of sulphur at bottling. Old vines, low yields, meticulous and environmentally-conscious viticulture, and low-intervention vinification along with the skillful use of some new oak produce wines of remarkable quality and character.
“Over the last few decades Domaine Brusset has emerged as one of the top producers of Gigondas. Today, the domaine, established in 1947 and based in Cairanne, encompasses over 70 hectares of vines, 20 of them in Gigondas on a prime, steeply terraced site in the Dentelles de Montmirail. The wines are raised in a combination of concrete tanks and demi-muids, save for the Les Hauts de Montmirail, which is brought up entirely in new oak barriques. For this reason, it needs some bottle age for the lumber to become acquainted with the wine’s ample fruit. These are undoubtedly wines to age, even in ripe vintages such as 2020, 2019 and 2018.”
– The Deep Bench of Gigondas, Josh Raynolds, Vinous, January 2023