Pierre-Marie Luneau farms his 45-year-old south-facing vines on 50 hectares of volcanic rock and mica-schist soil in Le Landreau, in the village of the same name. He is the ninth generation to do so. The estate is also known as Domaine Pierre de la Grange, and has been planted to Melon de Bourgogne since the 1700’s. The wines of Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin continue to surprise people who have become accustomed to overwhelming blandness as a marker of many Muscadets. Luneau’s wines are harvested and fermented by plot, and the resulting wines present distinct character.

Traditional production methods are followed here: juice was separated from gross lees, fermented for four weeks, and aged on fine lees in stainless steel for seven months. Minimal oxidation was permitted, and the finished wine was bottled the following spring.

This is a thoroughly charming wine. Entirely Melon de Bourgogne, to the eye, this wine seems to glow from within. The palate is a rich and inviting mix of ripe melon and crisp apple. The impact of the soil is abundantly clear – it imparts a particular mineral character to the wine’s structure. Its purity of flavour, fine weight, and freshness make for a superb aperitif. With the exception of Champagne, you will be hard-pressed to find anything better to accompany oysters.