The Grand Cellier d’Or is Vilmart’s “regular” vintage wine (an understatement by a mile). It is a spicy and linear wine, barrel aged but non-malolactic. The blend is composed of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir classified Premier Cru, from vines in Rilly-la-Montagne which are 50 years of age or older.
The base wine is aged for ten months in oak barrique. It spends 42 months on the lees, in the cellar after bottling, before disgorgement. It is rather dry, with 7 grams/litre dosage.
Immediately intense to the eye, it glimmers gold and yellow, and shows a fine, persistent bead. The palate displays fresh butter, lemon custard, candled pineapple, cardamom and pepper. Notes of chalk and roasted lobster shell evolve along with cinnamon and gingerbread. The finish is long and wraps up with flavours of grapefruit and praline. At once luxurious and tense, the wine is ready to drink now, but will evolve well.
“Rich and round with lots of interesting work around the edges. Very much an artisanal product! Lots to read into this wine.”
16.5+/20, Jancis Robinson, www.jancisrobinson.com, March 2022